As before stated, all accurate working drawings should be regarded as actual projections of the object, reduced, if need be, to some convenient scale. The following examples are given for practice in making such drawings, and should, in all cases, be drawn from the dimensions given, rather than copied by means of dividers. Great care should be taken to arrange the different views of an object in accordance with the principles laid down in the preceding chapter.

The plan should be placed above the elevation, and the right and left hand side views should be placed on the right and left, respectively, of the front elevation.*

The following applications should be carefully shaded, with the light assumed to come from the direction taken in the elementary projections, viz.: 45° over the left shoulder.

The examples may be drawn to any scale, from the dimensions given; but, for the convenience of such as desire to have the plates correspond in size to the ones already given, the scale to which they should be drawn will be given for each example.

Plate VII. shows the projections of pieces of timber and timber joints, such as are often required to be drawn to scale to illustrate proper methods of cutting and joining.

No, 1. To draw the plan and elevation of a common sill, showing the mortises for the joint at the corner and for the studs and floor timbers.
The elevation shows the mortise for the joint with the other sill, and the elevations of the cuts for floor .timbers. It also shows, by dotted lines, the lengths and depths of the mortises for corner posts and studs. The plan shows the last mentioned mortises, and, by dotted lines, the large mortise at the corner, indicating that it is cut through the stick. This example may be drawn, without further instructions, from the dimensions given, to the scale of two inches to the foot.

No. 2. To draw the front and side elevations of a half dove tail corner joints such as is often made for small frames.
The views show the two pieces cut and ready to be joined. In this example, the proper shading of the pieces does much to help one to understand how the cuts are to be made. From the shading, and a knowledge of the methods of revolution for the right hand side view, it will be understood that the part cut out, in the piece nearest the corner of the plate, is on the left, the solid part being on the right.

No. 3. To draw the outline of a scarf for a timber joint.
Only one piece is shown. The scarf for the other piece would be made in exactly the same way as the one shown, and hardwood keys, driven in, would make the joint complete. The elevation shows plainly the lengths and depths of all the cuts, and the plan shows that all the cuts are made straight across. In this and the next example, draw to the same scale as before.

No. 4. To draw the front and side elevations of a common brace joint.
The front elevation shows the angle of the brace, and the directions and depths of the cuts. This view should be drawn first, and the dotted lines, indicating the joint in the side elevation, may then be projected over by means of the T-square.

No. 5. To draw a front elevation and vertical section of a roof truss.
As the two sides of the truss are exactly alike, only one is shown. The section is taken on the line A B, of the elevation. A section like the one in this example is a side elevation of that part of the truss on the left of the line A B. The parts that would be cut by a plane passing through the line A B are shown in the section, cross-hatched by fine parallel lines. The hatched pieces shown in the elevation are the purlins on which the rafters rest. These purlins are cut into the truss and the lower edge of the rafter, each, one inch. The lower purlin, however, is cut on its under side, where it rests on the truss instead of into the truss. The pieces of the truss are all 1 2 inches wide. The lower chord is 15 inches deep, and the other pieces, with the exception of the brace, which is 8 inches, are 12 inches deep. The small brace is cut into the large timber at the top I inch, and at the bottom, as indicated in the plate. At the joint of the large timbers near C the cut at the end is 4 inches deep and at right angles to the top of the smaller timber.

The left hand end of the lower chord is of such a length as to cut into the rafter, horizontally, 4 inches. The lower end of the rafter is cut off on a line with the lower edge of the lower chord of the truss. The bolts are put through the middle of the joints, and in directions perpendicular to the edges of the top pieces that they pass through. The heads and nuts on the bolts are drawn of the same thickness as the bolts, and in width, one and a half times the thickness of the bolts. The flat washers are one inch thick and four inches in diameter. The angular ones underneath are of such sizes as to give surfaces 4 inches broad under the nuts. The diameters of the small bolts are each i inch, and of the rod 1 1/2 inches. The center of the lower purlin is on the line of the joint, produced. The top of the upper purlin is 3 inches below the joint on the right, and the middle purlin is half way between the other two. The purlins are 6 inches broad and 10 inches deep.

The center lines of the large timbers should first be drawn, then the timbers themselves may be drawn by laying off one-half the depth of each on each side of the center lines. The center line of the small brace may be found as follows: With the point where the center line of the rod cuts the top of the lower chord, as a center, and with a radius of 4 inches, to scale, describe an arc of a circle. From H, located by the intersection of the perpendicular with the center line above, draw a line tangent to the arc. The line of the joint near D is determined by joining the points of intersections of the top and bottom lines of the two pieces. The rest of the elevation can easily be drawn without further instructions.

In drawing the section on the right, first draw a center line, and lay off half the widths of the pieces on each side of it. The purlins show lengthwise in this view. All the horizontal lines may be projected over from points in the elevation.

Great care should be taken to shade the drawing correctly, and in getting the hatched surfaces even.

The hatching should be done by means of a good pen used in connection with a triangle and T-square.

No. 6. To construct a sectional view of a gutter and jack rafter.
The principal view shown is a section made at right angles to the walls and cornice of the house. The gutter is of very simple construction, being merely a 7/8 inch board supported on the roof sheeting by means of small brackets resting on the shingles. The valley, made by the board and roof sheeting, is then tinned so as to be water-tight, and the shingles are laid over the tin. A side view, on the left, shows a part of the gutter and the thickness of one of the small brack- ets. These brackets are placed two feet apart.

The ends of the main rafters rest on the plate ; and the jack rafters are notched to fit the plate, and nailed to the sides of the main rafters to make a part of the finish of the cornice. This is done rather than to finish the ends of the main rafters, because the short jack rafters can be cheaply finished at the mill.

The piece shown in section, resting on the upper edge of the jack rafter, is called the plancher. It is finished on the underside, and extends only a little above the frieze, which is the wide vertical board with its beveled top edge against the plancher.

In the plate the plancher is shown as running up higher than is necessary. The jack rafters are 7/8 inch narrower than the main rafters, in order that the top of the plancher, which rests upon them, may be flush with the upper edges of the main rafters above. The roof sheeting may then be laid on over the plancher and across the main rafters above. A narrow moulding is placed across the lower ends of the jack rafters, as shown.