A treatise on the care of band saws

In these pages I have minutely explained the art of Filing, Hammering, Brazing, and the management of large Band Saws; giving such points as will enable those following the instructions to produce the most satisfactory results. For the past ten years, I have made the Band Saw my constant study, in regard to their care and management, and to get from them the best possible results. Have been engaged in the most extensive and fastest mills throughout the country, and by applying myself to different methods and most all of the varieties of timber grown in the States, I have acquired a knowledge that could not be gained in a dozen mills. The larger the field the more information there is to be gained.

I do not claim to have learned all there is to be learned on this subject, but probably as much as can well be of value at the present, and if desirable can furnish references to corroborate my statements. The success of those who have followed my instructions, and the frequent applicants I have, who are desirous of learning the business, have encouraged me to formulate the following instructions; concise, yet so clear that one with only a slight knowledge of the work can follow intelligently.

Before entering upon these instructions let us examine the work before us and resolve to become master of the art; that it is an art, and of some magnitude, these pages will show, though not so difficult to surmount as is generally supposed, and I assure you if my instructions are closely followed, success will be the result.
 
Realizing that the success of mills is largely dependent upon good running saws, I will point out in detail that which constitutes such a saw.
 
We are well aware that a delay of a few minutes in some mills incurs a loss of several dollars, and that the saw does not have to stop to compute a loss, but frequently occurs through favoring worn out saws and saws that will not stand up to their work. For hammers you will require one round-faced, weight three to three and one-half pounds. One combined long and cross-faced, same weight.
 
One leveling or blocking hammer, weight two to two and one-half pounds, with a round and long face, and should be ground moderately sharp.
 
One crown-edge or tension level, to be crowned one-sixteenth of an inch in twelve inches. One straight-edge.
 
This completes the tools for hammering. You should also be equipped with a saw-stretcher, hammering block, lap-grinder or scarfer, saw sharpeners, swages, etc.
 
To familiarize yourself with anvil work and tension of the band saw blade, take a piece of old saw five or six feet in length, lay it on the leveling table (which can be of hard wood or cast iron), apply the straight-edge and with the leveling hammer remove all lumps, beginning at the end and hammering down the largest lumps, then the smaller ones. Having leveled this side, turn it over and treat the other side in the same manner.
 
Our next lesson will treat on giving the blade the proper tension. In order to locate the conditions of the blade (which are termed "fast," "stiff" and "loose"), it must be slightly curved, as shown in Figure I.
 
The "stiff" parts will require the same treatment as that of the "fast," with the exception of lighter blows.
 
Now that the "fast" and "stiffs" have been taken out, the hammering has produced lumps, which must be leveled again, as previously instructed.
 
In our next lesson we will render the blade stiff by hammering along its edges, with the round-faced hammer, on each side. (See Figure 5.)
 
After the blade has been thus treated, by applying the straight-edge we find the "loose" to have disappeared, and will show to the straight-edge as Figure 3, which is "stiff." By thus hammering along the edges we have changed the tension from "loose" to "stiff," and by continuing to hammer the edges we render the blade "fast." (See Figure 2.)
 
When you become familiar with the "fast," it will not be necessary for you to apply the straight-edge to locate it, but shall be able to feel and see it work when raising the saw up and down.
 
In our last lesson we rendered the blade "fast," and "stiff," by hammering the edges. We will now proceed to open up the central parts again, and give
it the proper tension by using the round-face hammer (as shown in Figure 4), on each side, as we have previously done. Having hammered the central parts until they drop from the straight-edge, level the blade again. Parts that "dish" from side to side, and can not be leveled (while the blade is lying straight on the leveling table), are too "loose," and the edges will have to be hammered to take it out. (See Figure 5.)
 
In this lesson we will straighten the back of the saw, and bring it in line with the straight-edge by using the round-face hammer along the hollow edge on both sides, extending the blows into the central parts, in order to maintain the tension. (See Figure 6.)