Exercises in woodworking

EXERCISES IN WOODWORKING
WITH A SHORT TREATISE ON WOOD
Written for manual training glasses in schools and colleges
BY IVIN SICKELS
NEW YORK, D. APPLETON AND COMPANY, 1890
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Exercises in woodworking
INTRODUCTION
The tendency of modern systems of education is toward a proper distribution of practical with theoretical training. The mind is to be aided in its development by the action of the eye and hand and, in fact, all the special senses are employed in objective teaching and manual exercises. In school, the eye does more than interpret the printed page : it recognizes the form and color of objects, it must calculate their size, proportion, and distance, by observing and comparing them ; the hand is required to do more than writing: it is taught to appreciate the weight, hardness, and other properties of objects, by actual contact with them. At first the introduction of drawing, modeling, and the use of tools, into the courses of study was experimental ; but, having passed beyond that stage, these exercises are now known to be efficient aids to a more natural and rapid as well as stronger mental development.
This book deals with carpentry and joinery, and is divided into two parts:
The First Part treats of the structure, properties, and kinds of wood ; its manufactures and economic relations to other substances, parasitic plants and insects ; and means of preserving wood.
The Second Part contains the exercises, preceded by a description of tools, and the manner of drawing used to illustrate the exercises.These exercises are based upon American methods of work and have been taught as follows: Each exercise was explained, illustrated by sketches on the blackboard, and then executed by the students. As the exercises advanced, the blackboard sketches were prepared with more detail, each being shown with its measurements designated. The students copied these sketches and noted down such of the verbal directions as they could. With the higher exercises it was found necessary to issue duplicate copies, describing and illustrating each step in construction, and also to exemplify by models made by the instructor.
Exercises 1 to 8 introduce the chief wood-working tools and methods of marking. These exercises should be executed with much care and patience, and if necessary repeated, to insure better results in subsequent work. Following exercise 8 are directions for sharpening tools. But students should not attempt to sharpen tools until they have had considerable practice in the use of them ; especially saw-filing, which requires remarkably good judgment, keen eye-sight, and a steady hand. Exercises 9 to 20 give instructions for marking out and shaping simple joints. Exercises 31 to 27 instruct in the methods employed in uniting several pieces to make a complete structure. Exercises 28 to 35 give the details of ordinary house-carpentry, from which the student may obtain particulars for the construction of models, and the apprentice the actual building of the various parts making up a wooden dwelling. Exercise 36 shows the use of the frame-saw, and methodsof bending wood. Exercise 37 gives an example of pattern-work, and illustrates the manner of uniting pieces for economy of labor. Exercise 38 instructs in shaping by the use of templets. Exercise 39 treats of veneering, followed by directions for painting and polishing.
This book deals with carpentry and joinery, and is divided into two parts:
The First Part treats of the structure, properties, and kinds of wood ; its manufactures and economic relations to other substances, parasitic plants and insects ; and means of preserving wood.
The Second Part contains the exercises, preceded by a description of tools, and the manner of drawing used to illustrate the exercises.These exercises are based upon American methods of work and have been taught as follows: Each exercise was explained, illustrated by sketches on the blackboard, and then executed by the students. As the exercises advanced, the blackboard sketches were prepared with more detail, each being shown with its measurements designated. The students copied these sketches and noted down such of the verbal directions as they could. With the higher exercises it was found necessary to issue duplicate copies, describing and illustrating each step in construction, and also to exemplify by models made by the instructor.
Exercises 1 to 8 introduce the chief wood-working tools and methods of marking. These exercises should be executed with much care and patience, and if necessary repeated, to insure better results in subsequent work. Following exercise 8 are directions for sharpening tools. But students should not attempt to sharpen tools until they have had considerable practice in the use of them ; especially saw-filing, which requires remarkably good judgment, keen eye-sight, and a steady hand. Exercises 9 to 20 give instructions for marking out and shaping simple joints. Exercises 31 to 27 instruct in the methods employed in uniting several pieces to make a complete structure. Exercises 28 to 35 give the details of ordinary house-carpentry, from which the student may obtain particulars for the construction of models, and the apprentice the actual building of the various parts making up a wooden dwelling. Exercise 36 shows the use of the frame-saw, and methodsof bending wood. Exercise 37 gives an example of pattern-work, and illustrates the manner of uniting pieces for economy of labor. Exercise 38 instructs in shaping by the use of templets. Exercise 39 treats of veneering, followed by directions for painting and polishing.
CONTENTS
Introduction
Part First
Wood
Structure of wood
Composition of wood
Branching of stems
Age of trees
Decay of trees
Season for cutting
Milling
Drying of wood
Warping
Properties of wood
Defects in wood
Measure and value of wood
Kinds of wood
Table of chief qualities of wood
Wood and iron
Wood-working trades
Parasitic plants
Timber-borers
Preservation of wood
Part Second
Exercises
Tools (Plates A and B)
Drawing (Plate C)
Exercise
1. Use of the chisel
2. Use of the chisel (continued)
3. Use of the gouge
4. Use of the hammer
5. Use of the jack-plane
6. Plane (continued) and marking-gauge
7. Use of the rip-saw
8. Use of the cross-cut
Sharpening tools with the oilstone (Plate D)
Sharpening tools on the grindstone (Plate E)
Sharpening tools. Saw filing (Plate P)
Exercise
9. Construction of a half-joint
10. Modified forms of the half-joint
11. Construction of a mortise-joint
12. Pinning the mortise-joint
13. Construction of a stub-mortise
14. Construction of a dovetail-joint
15. Construction of a miter-joint
16. Use of the miter-box
17. Construction of a stretcher-joint
18. Uniting with dowels
19. Gluing
20. Examples of glued joints
21. Laying out a dovetailed box
22. Laying out and cutting the dovetails
23. Marking and cutting the tenons
24. Finishing the box
25. Hinging the top to tlie box
26. Construction of a drawer
27. Construction of a blind-dovetailed box
28. Framing
29. Construction of window and door frames
80. Inclosing a building
31. Laying floors. Trimming
32. Construction of a sash
33. Construction of a door
34. Construction of stairs
35. Laying out and shaping the hand-rail
36. Use of the frame-saw. Bending wood
37. Construction of a pattern
38. Shaping a boat-model
39. Veneering
Polishing
Painting
Index
WOOD-WORKING
In arranging a workshop, the position of the work-bench with regard to the light is of prime importance. For carpentry and general joinery, the light should be at the head of the bench, so that it can pass under the try square, and to avoid awkward positions in testing work. The turner and carver should have the light come down on the top of their work, from a sky-light, or have the lathe or bench in front of a tall window, the lower part of which is screened by tool-racks.
Although some workmen are obliged to keep their tools in chests for convenience in moving, or in drawers under the bench, the better plan is to have them in a closet within easy reach, above the bench or against the wall opposite the bench. The closet should have the doors and sides furnished with strips of wood notched to hold the various tools, nearly all of which may be supported on such racks. Each tool thus has its own peg or place, in which it is kept when not in use. Even in a chest or in drawers the saws, chisels, gouges, bits, and other edge tools, are separated by notched strips to prevent injury to their edges.
The work-bench itself, made of hard wood, preferably maple, requires some care to preserve a smooth and clean top. The saws, chisels, boring-tools, nails, screws, or other sharp tools, must never cut into the bench. The vise should be brought square to its work, and no irregular or metallic objects should be fastened in it. Frequently brush the top of the bench and clean off drops of glue, paint, or varnish, immediately. Make no pencil-marks on the top, as they soil the work.
Have on the bench only those tools to be used in the work at hand; all others must be put away.
The tools should be used only for the purpose for which they are intended; measures and marking-tools not to be used as levers, the try-square not as a hammer or screw-driver, nor the compasses as a boring-tool.
The polished surfaces of steel tools should be carefully protected from moisture and especially from perspiration. To prevent rust, rub the bright parts frequently with a mixture of paraffine and vaseline, or equal parts of beeswax and tallow. If rust should appear, brighten the spot with some fine emery-cloth and oil, rubbing always in the direction of the polish scratches.
In working up old material, the greatest caution must be taken to prevent sawing and planing on nails, etc.
In mortising, do not strike the chisel with the hammer, and on no occasion strike the hammer on its side. Planes must have their soles frequently rubbed with the wax or paraffine mixture; always lay them on their side or on thin strips on the bench.
The student should wear a long apron, without pockets, and made of strong material. Workmen use short aprons, and while building or in out-of-door work have the bottom turned up and sewed, to make a large pocket for nails and small tools.
The work must be carefully protected from bruises by dropping, striking with hammer or other tools, and from chips on the bench.
In all this training three things are to be aimed at: First, accuracy, which in wood- working specially applies to marking and cutting; second, finish, or smoothness; and, third, quickness of execution.
After marking out the work, it should be inspected and approved by the instructor before cuts are made. Pencil-marks must always be light and fine, so as to be easily removed.
When an exercise is finished, the work should have the name or number of the student and the date written on it, the bench brushed off, and all tools cleaned and put away.
Although some workmen are obliged to keep their tools in chests for convenience in moving, or in drawers under the bench, the better plan is to have them in a closet within easy reach, above the bench or against the wall opposite the bench. The closet should have the doors and sides furnished with strips of wood notched to hold the various tools, nearly all of which may be supported on such racks. Each tool thus has its own peg or place, in which it is kept when not in use. Even in a chest or in drawers the saws, chisels, gouges, bits, and other edge tools, are separated by notched strips to prevent injury to their edges.
The work-bench itself, made of hard wood, preferably maple, requires some care to preserve a smooth and clean top. The saws, chisels, boring-tools, nails, screws, or other sharp tools, must never cut into the bench. The vise should be brought square to its work, and no irregular or metallic objects should be fastened in it. Frequently brush the top of the bench and clean off drops of glue, paint, or varnish, immediately. Make no pencil-marks on the top, as they soil the work.
Have on the bench only those tools to be used in the work at hand; all others must be put away.
The tools should be used only for the purpose for which they are intended; measures and marking-tools not to be used as levers, the try-square not as a hammer or screw-driver, nor the compasses as a boring-tool.
The polished surfaces of steel tools should be carefully protected from moisture and especially from perspiration. To prevent rust, rub the bright parts frequently with a mixture of paraffine and vaseline, or equal parts of beeswax and tallow. If rust should appear, brighten the spot with some fine emery-cloth and oil, rubbing always in the direction of the polish scratches.
In working up old material, the greatest caution must be taken to prevent sawing and planing on nails, etc.
In mortising, do not strike the chisel with the hammer, and on no occasion strike the hammer on its side. Planes must have their soles frequently rubbed with the wax or paraffine mixture; always lay them on their side or on thin strips on the bench.
The student should wear a long apron, without pockets, and made of strong material. Workmen use short aprons, and while building or in out-of-door work have the bottom turned up and sewed, to make a large pocket for nails and small tools.
The work must be carefully protected from bruises by dropping, striking with hammer or other tools, and from chips on the bench.
In all this training three things are to be aimed at: First, accuracy, which in wood- working specially applies to marking and cutting; second, finish, or smoothness; and, third, quickness of execution.
After marking out the work, it should be inspected and approved by the instructor before cuts are made. Pencil-marks must always be light and fine, so as to be easily removed.
When an exercise is finished, the work should have the name or number of the student and the date written on it, the bench brushed off, and all tools cleaned and put away.
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