Framing: A practical manual

Framing: A practical manual - Title page of a bookFRAMING: A PRACTICAL MANUAL

of approved Up-to-date Methods of House Framing and Construction Together With Tested Methods of Heavy Timber and Plank Framing as Used in the Construction of Barns, Factories, Stores and Public Buildings; Strength of Timbers; and Principles of Roof and Bridge Trusses

BY WILLIAM A. RADFORD

THE RADFORD ARCHITECTURAL COMPANY, 1909
 

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Framing: A Practical Manual of Approved Up-to-date Methods of House Framing and Construction

      

FRAMING

The subject of Framing, taken in its broadest sense, includes pretty nearly the entire structural field. By one of the most common uses of the term, whenever two members are joined or fastened together they are said to be framed together. More especially, this applies to the heavy or supporting members of any structure.

Thus we speak of the steel framing of a modem “skyscraper” Most framing, however, implies wood construction, as the timber framing of trestle bridges, heavy framing for barns or public buildings, and the framing for houses of various sorts.

To the carpenter especially, and to all others interested in wood in a structural way, this is a most important subject. The framing of a building has been likened to the skeleton of the human body; it is important that it be put together properly and connected up in the right way. The whole stability and success of the edifice depend on the strength and proper arrangement of the supporting frame. Also, when the framing in its various forms and with its various allies has been mastered, the whole structure will be understood.

In examining this subject with special reference to practical carpentry construction, framing may naturally be divided under the following heads:

(1) Timber framing for houses;

(2) Bam framing;

(3) Framing of factories, stores, and public buildings;

(4) Miscellaneous framing, including strength of timbers and the principles of truss construction.

The work, accordingly, will be taken up in this order. In some cases, certain subjects of an introductory or explanatory nature will be discussed, although, strictly speaking, they are no part of “framing” and, possibly, are not done by the carpenter. Yet a knowledge of them will add to the carpenter's equipment, and will help him to do his work more intelligently.


HOUSE FRAMING

After this preliminary work has been done and the foundation walls erected, the real work of framing for the carpenter begins. There are in general use at the present time two distinct types of framing, known respectively as braced framing and balloon framing. The first is the older and stronger method, and is favored, especially in the Eastern States, for the more expensive houses. The latter has come into much favor during the past fifty years, is decidedly cheaper than the other, and is entirely satisfactory for most residence work.

Balloon Framing. Since the balloon system of framing is now most in use, it will be chiefly considered here, with some references to and comparisons with braced framing, as opportunity offers. It may be said in passing, however, that in a full braced frame all the pieces are fastened together with mortise-and-tenon joints; but this is modified in actual practice, spiked joints and comer braces being used.

Sill Construction. The sill is that part of the side walls of a house that rests horizontally immediately upon the foundation or under-pinning, to which it should be securely fastened.

In former times it was required that sills should be of squared, solid timbers of good size, 6 by 8 or at the least 6 by 6 inches. In connection with the other economies introduced with balloon framing, however, several types of box sills have come into use, and are thoroughly satisfactory if laid on a good wall foundation. They will not do on posts or piling.

Box Sills. As is always the case where rules governing construction and design are yet in a changing and unsettled state, so-called box sills of various kinds have been used under houses - not altogether satisfactorily. In some cases the studs are set on top of sill or wall-plate, and the floor-joist spiked to the studs, so that when floor is laid out to studs it leaves an opening the height of joist and width of studding from underneath the building up between siding or sheathing and plaster, thereby allowing rats, mice, and cold air free access.

Some carpenters try to remedy this by blocking in between the studs, which, if well done, win answer the purpose of closing the opening; but another objection still remains.

The sills, joists, studs, and other rough lumber, are generally right from the saw, and, upon seasoning, will shrink from % to 1 inch to the foot in width, while the shrinkage in length is scarcely perceptible. So the joists are on top of sill and nailed to studs, and floor laid out to studs, and base fitted close to the floor and nailed to the studs. This looks all right, and would be if it stayed so; but in a few months the joist will shrink and take the floor down with it, leaving the base nailed to the studs, and a crack from 1/2 to 3/4 inch under the base.


CONTENTS

HOUSE FRAMING PAGE

Laying Out Building Lines - Squaring a Comer - Foundation Work - Forms for Concrete - Cement Cellar Floors- Water-proofing Cellars - Braced Framing- Balloon Framing- Sill Construction - Floor Joists - Bridging and Bracing - ^Beams and Supports - Studding - Wall Framing - Ledger-Board and Plate - Sheathing a House - Building Paper - Trussed and Braced Partitions - Party-Walls - Sound-Proofing - Cornice Construction - Putting in Show Blocks - Window Framing - Bays, Casements, Dormers, etc. - Transom - Triple Window - Octagon Bay - Window Ventilators – “Open-Air” Rooms - Trussed Openings - Door Framing - Flooring - Porch Framing - Steps - Fireplaces - Furring and Lathing - Interior Trim - Roof Framing - Hips and Valleys - Rafter Framing with Steel Square - Ridge-Pole - Purlins - Wind Bracing - Stair-Building- Types of Stairs - Laying Out a Stair - Treads and Risers - Landings- Strings - Handrail - Balusters - Framing for Cement House Construction - Concrete Walls - Metal and Wood Lath - Cement Surfacing - Artistic Finishing - English Half-Timbered Houses - Brick Veneer Houses - Waterproofing - Bonding of Masonry and Woodwork - Cement Block Veneer - Timber Framing for Stone and Brick Houses - Framing for Slate, Tile, and Other Heavy Roofing


BARN FRAMING PAGE

Heavy Timber Barns - General Principles - Location - Drainage - Foundation - Details, Sises, and Spacing of Timbers – Joints - Bracing - Roof Construction - Plank-Framing - Relative Cost and Desirability - Balloon Framing - Support of Hay Track - Hanging of Doors - Water-Tight Floor - Cement Floor - Mangers


FRAMING OF INDUSTRIAL BUILDINGS

Mill Construction - Relative Fireproof Character - Cost and Desirability - Factories and Shops - Office and Public Buildings - Fireproofing - Saw-Tooth Roofs - Supports for Machinery, Shafting, etc.


STRENGTH OF TIMBERS; TRUSS FRAMING

Principles of Truss Construction - Safe Loads on Beams- Factor of Safety - Sises of Beams - Simple Roof Trusses- Truss Loads - Chords - Diagonals - Ties - Struts - Tension and Compression Members - Trusses for Broad Spans - Curved Trusses - Plank-Framed Trusses - Lattice Trusses - Flat Roof Trusses - Strengthening Trusses - Cambering a Truss- Trussed Partitions

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