Jigs and fixtures

JIGS AND FIXTURES
BY EINAR MORIN
PART II - DRILL JIGS
CONTENTS
- Design of Open Drill Jigs
- Examples of Open Drill Jigs
- Design of Closed or Box Jigs
- Examples of Closed or Box Jigs
MACHINERY'S REFERENCE SERIES
The Industrial Press, New York, 1910
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DESIGN OF OPEN DRILL JIGS
To give any rational rules or methods for the design of drill jigs would be almost impossible, as almost every jig must be designed in a somewhat different way from every other jig, to suit and conform to the requirements of the work. All that can be done is to lay down the principles. The main principles for jigs as well as fixtures were treated at length in Chapter I. It is proposed in the following to dwell more in detail on the carrying out of the actual work of designing jigs.
Before making any attempt to put the lay-out of the jig on paper, the designer should carefully consider what the jig will be required to do, the limits of accuracy, etc., and to form, in his imagination, a certain idea of the kind of a jig that would be suitable for the purpose. In doing so, if a model or sample of the work to be made is at hand, it will be found to be a great help to study the actual model. If the drawing, as is most often the case, is the only thing that is at hand, then the outline of the work should be drawn in red ink on the drawing paper, on which the jig is subsequently to be laid out, and the jig built up, so to speak, around this outline. The designing of the jig will be greatly simplified by doing this, as the relation between the work and the jig will always be plainly before the eyes of the designer, and it will be more easily decided where the locating points and clamping arrangements may be properly placed. When drawing and projecting the different views of the jig on the paper, the red outline of the work will not in any way interfere, and when the jig is made from the drawing, the red lines are simply ignored, except to the extent to which the outline of the pieces may help the tool-maker to understand the drawing and the purpose of certain locating points and clamping devices.
If it is possible, the jig should be drawn full size, as it is a great deal easier to get the correct proportions, when so doing. Of course, in many cases, it will be impossible to draw the jigs full size. In such cases the only thing to do is to draw them to the largest possible regular scale. Every jig draftsman should be supplied with a set of blue-prints containing dimensions of standard screws, bolts, nuts, thumb-screws, washers, wing nuts, sliding points, drills, counterbores, reamers, bushings, etc.; in short, with blue-prints giving dimensions of all parts that are used in the construction of jigs, and which are, or can be, standardized. It should be required of every designer and draftsman that he use these standards to the largest possible extent, so as to bring the cost of jigs down to as low a figure as possible.
If it does not meet with objections from higher authorities, which it ought not to, it is highly advantageous for the obtaining of best results, that, before starting on the drawing, the draftsman who is to lay out the jig should converse with the foreman who is actually going to use the jig. Oftentimes this man will be able to supply the best idea for the making of the jig or tool. Not only is advantage taken of the combined experience of the draftsman and the foreman, but it is also a precaution of great importance for making all parties feel satisfied.
As a jig drawing, in most cases, is only used once, or at most only a very few times, it is not considered worthwhile to make a tracing or blue-print from the drawing, but, as a rule, the pencil drawing itself may be used to advantage. If, however, it is given out in the shop directly as it comes from the drawing-board, it is likely to get soiled, and to be used in such a manner that, after a while, it would be impossible to make out the meaning of the views shown on it. For this reason, in the first place, jig drawings should be made on heavy paper, preferably of brown color, which is not as quickly soiled as white paper. In order to prevent the drawing being torn, it should be mounted on strawboard, and held down along the edges by thin wooden strips, nailed to the board. It is also desirable to cover the drawings with a thin coat of shellac before they are sent out in the shop. When this is done, the dirt and black spots which will be always found on the drawing when it stays in the shop, if only for a few hours, may be washed off directly; and the shellac itself may be washed off by wood alcohol, when the drawing is returned to the drafting-room. The drawing, after having been cleaned, is then detached from the strawboard, which may be used over and over again. The drawing is, of course, filed away according to the drafting-room system.
It is common in a great many shops to make no detailed drawings of jigs, but simply to draw a sufficient number of different views and sections, and to dimension the different parts directly on the assembly drawings. In cases where the jig drawings are extremely complicated, and where they are covered with a large number of dimensions which make it hard to read the drawing and to see the outlines of the jig body itself, it has proved a great help to trace the outlines of the jig body, and of such portions as are made of cast iron, on tracing paper, omitting all loose parts, and simply putting on the necessary dimensions for making the patterns. A blue-print is then made from this paper tracing, and this is sent to the pattern-maker, who will find the drawing less of a puzzle, and who will need to spend far less time to understand how the pattern actually looks. A less skilled, and consequently a cheaper, man may also be used for making the pattern. It is, however, greatly to be doubted whether it is good policy not to detail jig drawings completely, the same as other machine details.
When jigs are made up for pieces of work which require a great many operations to be carried out with the same jig, and where a great number of different bushings, different sizes of drills, reamers, counterbores, etc., are used, a special operation sheet should be provided which should be delivered to the man using the jig, together with the jig itself. This enables him to use the jig to best advantage. On this sheet should be marked the order in which the various operations are to be performed, and the tools and bushings which are to be used. Of course, the bushings in such a case should be numbered or marked in some way so as to facilitate the selection of the correct bushing for the particular tool with which it is used. If this system is put in force and used for simpler classes of jigs also, the operator will need few or no instructions from his foreman, outside of this operation sheet.
Before making any attempt to put the lay-out of the jig on paper, the designer should carefully consider what the jig will be required to do, the limits of accuracy, etc., and to form, in his imagination, a certain idea of the kind of a jig that would be suitable for the purpose. In doing so, if a model or sample of the work to be made is at hand, it will be found to be a great help to study the actual model. If the drawing, as is most often the case, is the only thing that is at hand, then the outline of the work should be drawn in red ink on the drawing paper, on which the jig is subsequently to be laid out, and the jig built up, so to speak, around this outline. The designing of the jig will be greatly simplified by doing this, as the relation between the work and the jig will always be plainly before the eyes of the designer, and it will be more easily decided where the locating points and clamping arrangements may be properly placed. When drawing and projecting the different views of the jig on the paper, the red outline of the work will not in any way interfere, and when the jig is made from the drawing, the red lines are simply ignored, except to the extent to which the outline of the pieces may help the tool-maker to understand the drawing and the purpose of certain locating points and clamping devices.
If it is possible, the jig should be drawn full size, as it is a great deal easier to get the correct proportions, when so doing. Of course, in many cases, it will be impossible to draw the jigs full size. In such cases the only thing to do is to draw them to the largest possible regular scale. Every jig draftsman should be supplied with a set of blue-prints containing dimensions of standard screws, bolts, nuts, thumb-screws, washers, wing nuts, sliding points, drills, counterbores, reamers, bushings, etc.; in short, with blue-prints giving dimensions of all parts that are used in the construction of jigs, and which are, or can be, standardized. It should be required of every designer and draftsman that he use these standards to the largest possible extent, so as to bring the cost of jigs down to as low a figure as possible.
If it does not meet with objections from higher authorities, which it ought not to, it is highly advantageous for the obtaining of best results, that, before starting on the drawing, the draftsman who is to lay out the jig should converse with the foreman who is actually going to use the jig. Oftentimes this man will be able to supply the best idea for the making of the jig or tool. Not only is advantage taken of the combined experience of the draftsman and the foreman, but it is also a precaution of great importance for making all parties feel satisfied.
As a jig drawing, in most cases, is only used once, or at most only a very few times, it is not considered worthwhile to make a tracing or blue-print from the drawing, but, as a rule, the pencil drawing itself may be used to advantage. If, however, it is given out in the shop directly as it comes from the drawing-board, it is likely to get soiled, and to be used in such a manner that, after a while, it would be impossible to make out the meaning of the views shown on it. For this reason, in the first place, jig drawings should be made on heavy paper, preferably of brown color, which is not as quickly soiled as white paper. In order to prevent the drawing being torn, it should be mounted on strawboard, and held down along the edges by thin wooden strips, nailed to the board. It is also desirable to cover the drawings with a thin coat of shellac before they are sent out in the shop. When this is done, the dirt and black spots which will be always found on the drawing when it stays in the shop, if only for a few hours, may be washed off directly; and the shellac itself may be washed off by wood alcohol, when the drawing is returned to the drafting-room. The drawing, after having been cleaned, is then detached from the strawboard, which may be used over and over again. The drawing is, of course, filed away according to the drafting-room system.
It is common in a great many shops to make no detailed drawings of jigs, but simply to draw a sufficient number of different views and sections, and to dimension the different parts directly on the assembly drawings. In cases where the jig drawings are extremely complicated, and where they are covered with a large number of dimensions which make it hard to read the drawing and to see the outlines of the jig body itself, it has proved a great help to trace the outlines of the jig body, and of such portions as are made of cast iron, on tracing paper, omitting all loose parts, and simply putting on the necessary dimensions for making the patterns. A blue-print is then made from this paper tracing, and this is sent to the pattern-maker, who will find the drawing less of a puzzle, and who will need to spend far less time to understand how the pattern actually looks. A less skilled, and consequently a cheaper, man may also be used for making the pattern. It is, however, greatly to be doubted whether it is good policy not to detail jig drawings completely, the same as other machine details.
When jigs are made up for pieces of work which require a great many operations to be carried out with the same jig, and where a great number of different bushings, different sizes of drills, reamers, counterbores, etc., are used, a special operation sheet should be provided which should be delivered to the man using the jig, together with the jig itself. This enables him to use the jig to best advantage. On this sheet should be marked the order in which the various operations are to be performed, and the tools and bushings which are to be used. Of course, the bushings in such a case should be numbered or marked in some way so as to facilitate the selection of the correct bushing for the particular tool with which it is used. If this system is put in force and used for simpler classes of jigs also, the operator will need few or no instructions from his foreman, outside of this operation sheet.
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