Modern carpentry and building

Fourteen years ago THE MODERN CARPENTERS' COMPANION AND BUILDERS' GUIDE was issued, and has since met with a sale of ten thousand copies; which, considering the fact that it has been advertised but very little indeed, shows that it met a want. Some complaint has been made that the illustrations did not always come opposite the descriptions, and many have expressed a desire for a much larger number of floor plans of modern residences, accompanied by elevations or perspectives to show the general style of exterior finish ; others wanted complete framing plans and specifications.

For many reasons it has been deemed best to remodel and add to this book, thus bringing it up to date, and meeting most of the above mentioned requirements, and to distinguish this revised book from the former one, it has been decided to call it MODERN CARPENTRY AND BUILDING.

It must not be inferred that this is a thorough, complete and exhaustive work on carpentry, dealing with framing odd shaped structures, groined arches, and the like. There are a number of excellent works of that kind already in the market, although their prices are a little beyond the reach of some, and a college education in the higher mathematics seems almost a requisite in order to thoroughly master some of them.

This book is intended as an aid to the workman in the numerous instances that are daily or constantly occurring, either where some detail has slipped his mind in some of the methods of laying out work, or suggestions in doing kinds of work with which he may not have had experience, or in making up estimates, etc., etc., a veritable handy book to be carried in his coat pocket or in his box of tools, ready for instant reference, not left at home.

Some workmen seem to consider it a sign of ignorance for a man to buy a book on carpentry, and they will say with a sneer that they did not learn their trade from a book, (some of them by their work giving ample evidence that they never learned their trade at all) ; while doctors, lawyers and ministers, college graduates, who have had special training to fit them for their duties, are constantly referring to their books, the ignorant workman feels affronted when offered a work treating on his line of business; but the intelligent, wide-awake, up-to-date workman is always on the watch for new points short cuts in doing work, and doing it right the first time, and he had just as soon learn new points from a book (if it is written by a practical workman one who knows what he is talking about) as to learn it through another man, (and perhaps the other man may be a "back number" and has forgotten some of it himself).

We have thought best to scatter the views of residences throughout the book (possibly some will not like this), and while some of the floor plans in the back part of this book may not exactly match some of the elevations, they will give a very fair idea from which such additions or alterations can be made as customers or builders may desire, they are offered more as suggestions than as working plans, although they can be used to build from by any intelligent workman.

If it is desired to ascertain dimensions of details of finish from the photographs of residences shown in this book, a scale can be marked off easily with a pencil on a strip of paper or cardboard, using as a basis the height of a riser on outside steps, which is generally about 7 inches, or use the width of an ordinary window which usually is about 3 feet, or the width of clapboards, shingles, or bricks. A scale made from a riser or window on front, can be used for all vertical measurements and all horizontal measurements on the front, but on a side, a separate scale will be needed for horizontal measurements owing to the fore-shortening of the perspective, and for this scale use the width of a window on the side, as a basis. To the thoughtful, intelligent workman, doubtless other methods may suggest themselves.

Some of the floor plans we show are reversed, or opposite handed from some of the views shown by the photographs, but any plan can be instantly reversed by holding it before a mirror, so that it is not absolutely necessary to have them drawn both ways, in order to judge which way is most desirable for any given location.

There have also been inserted elevations, floor plans, and framing plans complete, giving exhaustive details of a modern 2-story house of approved design and construction', together with Building Specifications and Contract for erection of a moderate-priced dwelling. We believe this feature will be greatly appreciated by our readers. We have had a great many inquiries for a French and German edition, dealers in the West saying they could sell almost as many of those as of the English edition, but to all such we would say that the English edition is all we shall issue, and those who come to this country to earn their living, ought to learn this country's language, and they can use this book to practice reading.

This house is to be set so that the bay window (or piazza) shall be 15 feet from the line that divides the lot of land from the street or sidewalk, and so that no part shall be nearer than 12 feet from the eastern boundary line (piazza and steps not included).

Remove the loam from the place where the house is to stand, and also from a space 8 feet wide all around outside, and stack it up where it will be out of the way, and convenient to replace after grading is done.

The highest point of cellar bottom is to be 5 feet below the highest point of sidewalk grade abreast of the house, and is to slope 6 inches deeper at one corner so it can be drained if necessary.

The cellar wall is to be laid dry (starting in a trench 6 inches below cellar bottom), and afterwards well pointed with mortar.

The top of underpinning is to be 3 feet above highest point of sidewalk (making cellar 8 feet deep in least place);  and the final grading is to be done so as to show 2 feet of underpinning,* thus giving a slope of 1 foot in 15.

CELLAR BOTTOM. Level off the cellar bottom, settle it thoroughly and cover it flush and smooth throughout with cement concrete, in three parts of clean, coarse, sharp gravel and one part of good cement, three inches deep, and finished with true and even surface.

DRAINS. All underground drain pipes to be of the best quality vitrified pipe, any exposed drains to be 4-inch iron pipe; in sizes, etc., as marked on plans. These pipes to be properly trapped, graded and the joints cemented tight. The roof leaders and all necessary waste and soil pipes of the building as shown by the drawings, to be connected; also build all grease traps and catch basins which must have stone covers; put in all traps where shown ; use bends and curves for all crooks, whether vertical or horizontal.

Make all joints clean and tight, of cement, and make perfectly smooth on inside at same; supply each trap with an opening or trap screw on top so that it can be cleaned out easily if necessary. All pipe to be laid on a true and even grade with as much fall given them as possible, and all junctions to be in one piece and of such shape as is necessary to make all the different connections required.

CISTERN. Build a cistern as shown, 5 feet in diameter and 6 feet deep, lay the walls of hard brick 4 inches thick, and pack the earth against them when dry, arch and neck 4 inches thick; bottom to be laid in two courses of brick, laid flat, the whole laid in and smoothly coated on the inside with cement. Lay a strong, rough flag over manhole in the neck; connect the cistern with house leaders through 6-inch vitrified pipe, laid down clear of frost. Lay a 6-inch drain overflow connected closely with the cistern near its top and on a proper and sufficient grade? trap it and connect with drain to its individual cesspool at the most convenient point for its proper operation.

CESSPOOLS. Construct a cesspool 8 feet in diameter and 10 feet deep in the clear, to be properly stoned up: draw in on top in a substantial manner; leave man-hole with cover of heavy flag-stone. Make the necessary connections with all drains to the same. When there is a cistern, build a separate cesspool with stone walls laid dry and 5 feet in diameter and 6 feet deep for the overflow from the same. Cesspools to be located where shown.

PRIVY VAULT. Build a privy vault 4 feet by 4 feet in size and 4 feet deep, laid up with good hard bricks laid in cement.

SHINGLES. Roof is to be covered with the best clear pine or cedar shingles laid 4 inches to the weather with wide flashings of 4 lb. lead or 14 oz. copper wherever needed.

CLAPBOARDS. To be best quality of clear pine. The walls are to be covered with a good thickness of water proof paper (not tarred) before clapboarding, and all window tops, water cants, etc., are to be properly flashed.

TIN ROOFS to have very best quality of tin, put on in best manner, and soldered with rosin.

LATHING AND PLASTERING. All walls, partitions and ceilings to be lathed and plastered, two coats, excepting ceiling of cellar, which is to have only one coat of plaster.

COLD AIR DUCT FOR FURNACE. Construct a frame of 2 inch plank, (same as cellar window frames) to be built in underpinning to admit the cold air, and cover with coarse wire netting; construct cold air passages from this opening to furnace, and make it air tight, and to suit the requirements; put in a wooden slide damper inside of cellar wall, and make the whole complete to suit the requirements of the furnace man.

PLUMBING. Furnish all materials and perform all labor requisite and necessary for putting up and completing all the plumbing work, in a good and thoroughly work- manlike manner, according to the drawings and these specifications and their full intent and meaning. Where the specifications vary or conflict with the drawings, the contractor is to be governed by the specifications. All local laws to be complied with, even if they conflict with anything in these specifications. All the cutting for the pipes will be done by the carpenter, and then only close to bearings. All horizontal and vertical pipe connections to be made with iron hooks, braces or hangers, all Y branches and one-eighth bends. All cast iron pipes to be properly supported and secured with large joints made with oakum and run with molten lead well calked.

All water service pipes must be put on inch-thick stripping or in cases to be prepared by carpenter, and all to be so put that they can be readily got at, at any time for examination. No pipes to run on outside walls unless absolutely necessary. All lead pipes to be secured with hard metal tacks and screws, and all lead waste or ventilating connections to iron pipes to be made through brass ferrules, which must be soldered to the lead pipes and caulked with oakum into iron hub and the joints run with molten lead.

All exposed places of water pipes or any pipes containing water that is liable to freeze, must be thoroughly packed with mineral wool properly boxed and cased in.

The plumber to do all necessary digging, obtain permits, pay all fees and reinstate all ground and pavement.

DRAINS. Will be put in by the mason as shown on plan. The plumber to connect iron pipe to same 3 feet outside the cellar wall.