Wood turning

WOOD-TURNING
(The Woodworker Series)
By Fairham William
PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON, J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY
DOWNLOAD FREE BOOK:
Wood turning
FOREWORD
Turning, one of the most effective and satisfying modes of ornament, has been employed from the earliest times in constructive and decorative woodwork, and this volume has been designed to assist the professional craftsman and the amateur in practical lathe work.
The uses of tools and the methods of manipulation for various classes of work are clearly given, and suggestions are offered as guidance for the setting out and grouping of the recognized classical members so as to secure correctly proportioned and graceful designs. The numerous illustrations include many examples of turnings in different styles, and in several cases full-sized working details are given.
The volume has been written and (for the most part) illustrated by Mr. William Fairham, and is aimed to assist not only the home worker, but also practical wood turners, cabinet makers, pattern makers, joiners, carpenters, wheelwrights, junior draughtsmen, and teachers and students in Technical or Day Continuation Schools.
THE LATHE
The art of Wood Turning consists, broadly speaking, of forming timber into such a shape that, if a section be taken at right angles to the axis on which the work is revolved, the section will be a circle. The machine or appliance in which the timber is revolved whilst the cutting action is in progress is called a Lathe.
Fig. I is a sketch showing the front view of a standard foot or treadle lathe. Fig. 2 illustrates the back view of the same lathe, a complete numbered list of parts being given on page 3. Various makes of lathes differ in design and construction, but the general principle is the same.
The length of the bed of the lathe shown in the illusration is 3 ft. 6 ins.; and the height of the centres from the bed is 5 ins. The extension piece (No. 14) was in this particular case made after the lathe was bought, so as to enable the worker to turn table legs, etc., up to 2 ft. 8 ins. long. A sketch, Fig. 3, is shown of this extension, which can be bolted on and taken off the lathe proper as occasion demands.
Buying a Lathe. - The points to be remembered when buying a lathe are these:
Do not err by buying one that is too small and too lightly built. The height from the bed of the lathe to the centre of the spindle, and the distance between the centres (4 and 7) regulate, respectively, the diameter and the length of the work which is to be operated upon.
If your pocket will afford it, do not buy a lathe the bed of which is less than 3 ft. 6 ins. long, and the height to the centres of less than 4 ins.
The whole of the moving parts should be accurately fitted. The driving wheel should be weighted, so as to bring up the treadle to such a position that it is always ready to be started by a direct downward pressure of the foot, and the cast-iron legs should be of a fairly heavy design. Lightly built lathes are useless for good work, as their construction is such that they do not absorb vibration.
The Operation of Shaping Wood by means of a lathe is as follows: The timber to be turned is placed in the lathe between the live centre (7) and the dead centre (4). The treadle is started ; this transmits, by the action of the chain (23), the requisite power to the crankshaft and driving wheel. This, again, by aid of a leather belt or strap, turns the live spindle and so sets the wood revolving. A turning tool, generally a gouge, is firmly held by the worker with the blade supported by the tee rest, and the waste wood is cut away so as to leave the desired shape.
Make yourself familiar with the adjustments of your lathe. Slacken the nut at the centre of the tailstock, and note how readily the tailstock can be moved along the lathe bed so as to take the desired length of timber. Slacken the clamp (13) and you will find that the tee rest support can be adjusted so as to take varying diameters, or that it can be moved along the bed similarly to the tailstock, enabling you to bring it to any desired position lengthways on the bed. Slacken the screw (25), which allows the tee rest to be raised or lowered, and at the same time turned at right angles to the bed of the lathe.
Remember, before commencing work, that a lathe is in some ways like a bicycle, and that the moving parts require oiling so as to avoid undue friction. all the various parts of the lathe, your first difficulty will be learning to treadle. To the beginner it appears impossible to work the feet independently of the hands.
It is, therefore, advisable to spend an hour or so in practising with the treadle before attempting the actual turning. Both feet should be used in turn, and this will be found difficult at first. Much depends upon the poise of the body whilst changing the foot, and there is need for perseverance until easy and continuous running is obtained.
The great fault with the beginner is that he puts pressure on to the treadle before the crank passes the dead centre, thus working much harder than is necessary, or preventing the treadle from giving the crankshaft and flywheel a continuous revolution. Stand in front of the lathe (Fig. 4), the whole weight of the body on one leg; work the treadle with the other leg, but moving no other part of the body in unison with the leg. When this can be done with either the right or the left leg without undue fatigue, the beginner may consider himself ready for his first attempt at wood turning.
Fig. I is a sketch showing the front view of a standard foot or treadle lathe. Fig. 2 illustrates the back view of the same lathe, a complete numbered list of parts being given on page 3. Various makes of lathes differ in design and construction, but the general principle is the same.
The length of the bed of the lathe shown in the illusration is 3 ft. 6 ins.; and the height of the centres from the bed is 5 ins. The extension piece (No. 14) was in this particular case made after the lathe was bought, so as to enable the worker to turn table legs, etc., up to 2 ft. 8 ins. long. A sketch, Fig. 3, is shown of this extension, which can be bolted on and taken off the lathe proper as occasion demands.
Buying a Lathe. - The points to be remembered when buying a lathe are these:
Do not err by buying one that is too small and too lightly built. The height from the bed of the lathe to the centre of the spindle, and the distance between the centres (4 and 7) regulate, respectively, the diameter and the length of the work which is to be operated upon.
If your pocket will afford it, do not buy a lathe the bed of which is less than 3 ft. 6 ins. long, and the height to the centres of less than 4 ins.
The whole of the moving parts should be accurately fitted. The driving wheel should be weighted, so as to bring up the treadle to such a position that it is always ready to be started by a direct downward pressure of the foot, and the cast-iron legs should be of a fairly heavy design. Lightly built lathes are useless for good work, as their construction is such that they do not absorb vibration.
The Operation of Shaping Wood by means of a lathe is as follows: The timber to be turned is placed in the lathe between the live centre (7) and the dead centre (4). The treadle is started ; this transmits, by the action of the chain (23), the requisite power to the crankshaft and driving wheel. This, again, by aid of a leather belt or strap, turns the live spindle and so sets the wood revolving. A turning tool, generally a gouge, is firmly held by the worker with the blade supported by the tee rest, and the waste wood is cut away so as to leave the desired shape.
Make yourself familiar with the adjustments of your lathe. Slacken the nut at the centre of the tailstock, and note how readily the tailstock can be moved along the lathe bed so as to take the desired length of timber. Slacken the clamp (13) and you will find that the tee rest support can be adjusted so as to take varying diameters, or that it can be moved along the bed similarly to the tailstock, enabling you to bring it to any desired position lengthways on the bed. Slacken the screw (25), which allows the tee rest to be raised or lowered, and at the same time turned at right angles to the bed of the lathe.
Remember, before commencing work, that a lathe is in some ways like a bicycle, and that the moving parts require oiling so as to avoid undue friction. all the various parts of the lathe, your first difficulty will be learning to treadle. To the beginner it appears impossible to work the feet independently of the hands.
It is, therefore, advisable to spend an hour or so in practising with the treadle before attempting the actual turning. Both feet should be used in turn, and this will be found difficult at first. Much depends upon the poise of the body whilst changing the foot, and there is need for perseverance until easy and continuous running is obtained.
The great fault with the beginner is that he puts pressure on to the treadle before the crank passes the dead centre, thus working much harder than is necessary, or preventing the treadle from giving the crankshaft and flywheel a continuous revolution. Stand in front of the lathe (Fig. 4), the whole weight of the body on one leg; work the treadle with the other leg, but moving no other part of the body in unison with the leg. When this can be done with either the right or the left leg without undue fatigue, the beginner may consider himself ready for his first attempt at wood turning.
CONTENTS
THE LATHE
- Lathe Parts
- Treadling
- Gauging and Chucking
- Roughing Down
TURNING SMALL OBJECTS
- Using the Chisel
- Turning a Hollow
- Rounding off
- Stepping or Sinking
- The Calipers
- Gauges
- Examples
- Finishing with Glass-paper
- Tools.
TOOLS: GRINDING AND SHARPENING
- Grinding Gauges and Chisels
- Oil slips
- Sharpening.
THE BACK STAY - SAWING AND BORING
- Back Rest
- Back Stay
- Circular Sawing
- Drilling Attachment.
SPLIT TURNINGS AND TURNED MOULDINGS
- Jacobean Split Turnings
- Preparing the Wood
- Turning Mouldings
- The use of the Arbor
- Bulbous Turnings.
TWISTED AND SPIRAL TURNINGS
- Single Twists
- Double Twists
- Separate Strand Twists
- Cabriole Legs.
CHUCKS AND FACE PLATES
- Metal and Wooden Chucks
- Split Chucks
- Screw Chucks
- Face Plates
- Rounding Tools
HOLLOWING A VASE SUPPORTING COLLARS, ETC
- Hollowing a Vase
- Turning Discs
- Gap Lathes
- Temporary Supporting Collars
- Turning Moulds for Barred Doors
TURNING A BALL
- The Limit Gauge and Other Tools
- Operations in Turning Balls
- Testing Balls
- Turning Common Balls.
TURNING WOODEN RINGS, SQUARE TURNING,
- Cornice Pole Rings
- Use of Saddle
- Square Turning
- Quasi-square Turning
- Setting-out Laths
- Turning for Capitals
FINISHING TURNINGS - STAINING AND POLISHING
MISCELLANEOUS HINTS
- Tobacco Pipes
- Sideboard Pillars
- Noah's Ark Animals
- Grouping of Members
- Table of Speeds
- The Story of the Lathe.
PATTERNS FOR TURNINGS (with many full-sized details)
- Dining-Table, Billiard Table, and other Table Legs
- Columns, Posts, Spindles, etc.
- Chair Legs
- Newel Posts
- Household Turnery
Chessmen, Etc.
DOWNLOAD FREE BOOK: Wood turning
Free books category:
